This category covers chainsaws and everything connected with chainsaws, ranging from petrol, electric and battery. We have models for the professional user and the home user.
Today we’re going to look at assembling the Oregon safety chainsaw helmet. It’s relatively straightforward; with just a few pieces to click together, no tools are required.
I carried out a review of the Oregon safety chainsaw helmet last year which you can see in a previous blog post.
I have owned three or four of the Oregon chainsaw safety helmets; more often than not, the helmet is worn six days a week. It is a budget chainsaw safety helmet; however, for £19.98, it certainly does the job. The only issue I have had with the chainsaw helmet is where the earmuffs are held on to bracket the plastic eventually wears, so the earmuffs pop out of the cradle. I guess there may be a spare part for this issue; however, I have not carried out any research to find out yet.
You Can Watch The Video Below On How To Assemble The Oregon Safety Chainsaw Helmet
So first of all, find a table or workbench we can work comfortably. The first part of assembling is the earmuffs. You can see from the video that I’m pushing the clip into the helmet. Once the clip is pushed firmly into the helmet, it can’t be removed easily due to the lip that secures it firmly to the helmet. If you do ever find that you need to move the earmuffs, the clip can be removed using a screwdriver.
Once the earmuffs are in place, push the visor holder into the black plastic sockets. The visor can then be attached to the holder, as shown in the video.
Six ventilation holes for breathability and comfort.
Value for money chainsaw helmet.
Chainsaw Helmet
The helmet comes in cardboard packaging that needs assembling, there are only four or five pieces to assemble. I never quite understand why the manufacturers do not just assemble the chainsaw helmet so that the product is ready to go. It takes about five or 10 minutes to assemble the helmet. Thankfully, it is not too technical and most of the parts are self-explanatory when assembling.
I just purchased my second Oregon chainsaw safety helmet as my original safety helmet had served me well having been used for well over 1000 hours. I use the safety helmet, mainly for tree stump grinding, but also for the odd bit of chainsaw work and strimming. The reason I know that the helmet has been used for over a thousand is the fact that my stump grinder has an hour metre on, which records the number of hours used.
I would not recommend this chainsaw helmet for climbers, but for strimming, chainsaw use on the ground, it is absolutely fine. I have just purchased my second helmet after one year’s use (1000 use) due to the earmuffs becoming worn.
You Can See My Video Review Here
Oregon Chainsaw Helmet Worn Fitting
Worn Earmuff Fitting
The actual earmuff is fine, it is just where the earmuff pivots the plastic fixing has worn and became loose due to fair wear and tear (1000 hours use). There may be a solution to fixing this, however, for £18 it is probably not worth the time and effort it would take to fix.
To Conclude
This chainsaw helmet has been used for six days a week and around 50 weeks a year, in other words, it has a lot of use! I am recommending this product as I have just purchased my second helmet as the earmuff fixing was getting slightly worn.
I have looked at other chainsaw helmets which are considerably more money and some are either identical or very similar, but two or three times the price.
This chainsaw helmet is definitely recommended, 1000 hours use cannot be bad for this product.
The Oleo-Mac GS-440 Pro Petrol Chainsaw is currently on sale for £328.95 which is offering a saving of £120.05. Maybe this is a chainsaw that isn’t quite as popular as Stihl or Husqvarna. Although, the reviews are claiming that this is a well-built chainsaw, with a very similar build to the well-known brands.
Oleo-Mac is an Italian brand was founded in northern Italy in 1972. The business has gone from strength to strength, producing a number of tools for the landscaping industry. Oleo-Mac is part of the Emak group of companies, which also was part of Bertolini and Efco.
Let’s take a look at the Oleo-Mac GS-440 Pro Petrol Chainsaw
Features
A feature-packed chainsaw for heavy use.
Powerful two-stroke engine.
Fuel efficient with low emissions.
Engine built from quality components for durability.
The professionals talk highly of Oleo-Mac.
Electronically controlled digital coil for easy starting.
Automatic oil pump for chain lubrication.
Easy chain adjustment.
Primer for easy starting.
Special feature for working in zero temperatures.
Chain brake and handguard.
Easily viewable oil and fuel tanks.
Ergonomic handle designed for comfort.
Free spare chain.
Five-year warranty.
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The Oleo-Mac GS-440 Pro Petrol Chainsaw is designed for domestic and commercial use. With a 15 inch bar the chainsaw is a very convenient for general tasks. It’s an ideal size for those pruning jobs, but also has the capability to fell trees and to be working out in the woods.
Engine
With a 42.9cc two-stroke engine developing 2.8 hp this engine is constructed for heavy use. Complete with needle bearings and a steel shaft and connecting rod, the Oleo-Mac becomes a real workhorse under the toughest conditions.
The two-stroke engine is a modern clean engine, it is highly fuel-efficient and emits fewer particles than other chainsaws in the same size bracket. Starting is very easy with the electronically controlled digital coil and with the variable ignition which gives headache-free starting and great fuel efficiency.
Oil Feed
The oil feed for the chain is fully automatic and yet adjustable. The automatic oil feed means that when the machine is idling, no oil is flowing. When the chainsaw is in use the oil flow will automatically turn on. It is important to make sure that your chain has enough oil to keep the chain lubricated and cool. Failure to do this will result in a reduced chain life and blunt chains. Oil flow can be adjusted using the screw to increase or decrease the oil flow.
It is of great importance to make sure the chain is kept at the correct tension. If you over tighten the chain will put added strain on the bearings and wear the bar. Alternatively, a loose chain will move around and has the potential to slip off the chainsaw bar, something that you don’t want to happen.
Chains are tightened by loosening a couple of bolts on the chain bar and then turning a screw head to tighten or slacken the chain. It literally takes one minute to do this job.
Oleo-Mac GS-440 Pro Petrol Chainsaw Ergonomic Handle
Ergonomic Handle
The ergonomic handle gives the chainsaw a great balance which is of great importance when the chainsaw is being used for longer periods. The choke controls and the on-off switch can all be controlled from the handle area.
Safety
Safety is always of great importance when using a chainsaw, never take risks and treat the chainsaw with respect. The Oleo-Mac GS-440 Pro Petrol Chainsaw is equipped with a chain brake that acts as a guard. The chain brake can be pushed on in an emergency. It’s a good practice to place the chain brake on when the machine is idling, just in case the chain starts moving when the saw is on the ground.
Special Device
The Oleo-Mac is fitted with a special device that prevents ice forming on the carburettor. Warm air is taken from the cylinder which means that the chainsaw can be used in sub-zero temperatures.
To Conclude
I have used an Oleo-Mac chainsaw in the past although I have never actually owned an Oleo-Mac chainsaw. Most of us when we think of a chainsaw we think of the Stihl and Husqvarna brands. In fact, these are the brands that I have had the most experience with, however, I’ve also owned cheaper brands.
The Oleo-Mac GS-440 Pro Petrol Chainsaw offers a lot of chainsaw for the money. From carrying out my research on this product it’s definitely a good product to purchase. Looking at the professional arborist forums, tree surgeons are rating Oleo-Mac chainsaw highly.
Oleo-Mac obviously trusts their machines as they are offering a five-year peace of mind warranty on this chainsaw, which is excellent.
Today we are looking at the Husqvarna 572XP petrol chainsaw, a chainsaw that I have spent some time using. We recently looked at the Husqvarna 435 petrol chainsaw, a smaller, but extremely practical chainsaw. Today we are moving up the scale from a 41cc chainsaw to a professional 70cc chainsaw.
The Husqvarna 572XP petrol chainsaw costs between £800 – £950 mark, including vat prices vary depending on bar size and extras.
Over the years I have owned various chainsaws from different manufacturers, however, I have owned more Husqvarna chainsaws than any other brand. I’ve also owned Husqvarna strimmer’s and hedge cutters. The first Husqvarna chainsaw was launched in 1959, apparently, the first Husqvarna 90 chainsaw noise levels were half that of the competition. I guess through the noise reduction Husqvarna quickly made a name for themselves.
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Husqvarna 572XP Petrol Chainsaw
The very first thing that I noticed instantly with the Husqvarna 572XP petrol chainsaw was that it seemed to be the perfectly balanced chainsaw. Despite this chainsaw being a larger saw, it appears that Husqvarna have done a good job in this respect. It makes logging and cutting through tree trunks almost very leisurely, due to the balance.
At just 6.6 kg this Husqvarna chainsaw is lightweight for its category, I believe.
X-Torque
Features
Powerful 70.6cc two-stroke engine.
4.3 kW which equals 5.76 hp.
High cutting capacity.
Excellent cooling capacity for longer engine life.
State-of-the-art filtration system.
10 times quicker air/fuel mix adjustment.
Low vibrations.
Flip up tank caps.
Anti-clogging.
Optional heated handles on some models.
Fuel level gauge.
Auto tune.
Magnesium crankcase.
Smart start.
X-Torque.
Two year warranty.
Engine
Powered by a powerful 70 cc two-stroke engine developing 4.3 kW, which equals 5.76 hp which is a lot of horsepower for a chainsaw. Apparently, this power is 12% higher than on previous models.
One thing I have found with Husqvarna chainsaws is there easy to start engines. In general I have found Husqvarna chainsaws normally start after about the third pull. Two-stroke engines are slightly different to 4 strokes in the way that they are started. Normally with a two-stroke engine you turn the on-off switch to on, pull the choke out, prime the carburettor and pull the recoil start. Once the engine has fired, push the choke in and pull the recoil start and it will normally start. Be careful not to flood a two-stroke engine. Once you hear the engine fire, you need to push the choke in or turn the choke off, otherwise you will quickly have a flooded engine which will be difficult to start.
State-Of-The-Art Air Filter
The engine has a state-of-the-art air filtration system fitted. Chainsaws work in very dusty conditions, so it is upmost importance that filters are kept clean. I’ve seen far too many people trying to use engines with dirty filters, this doesn’t help performance and it also shortens the life of the engine. It’s always good to take a few minutes to remove your air filter on a regular basis and clean. A few regular checks can save time and money and frustration in the long run.
Excellent Cooling For Longer Engine Life
Bar Length
The Husqvarna 572XP petrol chainsaw comes in various bar sizes. The minimum recommended bar length is 15 inches and the maximum is 28 inches. The model that I used had a 24-inch bar. I believe that in most cases a 20-inch bar is adequate, although it’s a good idea to have a larger bar available, should the need arise. I’ve been used to using a 20-inch bar chainsaw most my life and well using the 24-inch bar for most work this was slightly too large. I guess to a certain extent it is what you get used to using!
Low Vibrations
Heated Handles
If you like the idea of heated handles Husqvarna offers this feature on some of the models. I believe the cost is around £40 extra if you require extra comfort! I have used the heated handled models and they really are quite effective!
Higher Cutting Capacity
To Conclude
Husqvarna has a huge amount of experience in the manufacture of chainsaws. As I mentioned earlier I have owned several Husqvarna chainsaws over the year, and in fact I still own a Husqvarna chainsaw. I like the fact that the saw is well balanced, and parts and service are readily available.
I always like to have a good warranty for peace of mind, Husqvarna gives two years on Husqvarna 572XP petrol chainsaw, so they obviously believe in their products.
Today we are looking at the Husqvarna 435 petrol chainsaw, I purchased this chainsaw just over three years ago. I was looking for a lightweight budget chainsaw and yet quality chainsaw, the Husqvarna does exactly this.
The Husqvarna chainsaw cost around £200, which was over three years ago, which to my mind, is excellent value. It is still priced very competitively today.
I always recommend to people who are potentially buying garden tools to buy the best that they can afford. Unfortunately, there are quite a large selection of garden tools that aren’t the best quality, you need to take care when purchasing.
Over the years I have owned many tools and machines for the landscaping, horticultural and forestry industry. Having been involved in the industry for over 30 years you tend to know what’s good and what’s not so good! I have owned many Husqvarna products over the years from chainsaws to Strimmer’s, I like and would recommend Husqvarna products. I’ve also used the Husqvarna rider range of mowers which are great machines, but that’s another story.
Husqvarna 435 petrol chainsaw
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Features
Lightweight petrol chainsaw.
Easy to start.
41cc engine.
Visible fuel level gauge.
Quick-release air filter.
Air injection.
X-Torque.
Inertia chain brake.
Economical fuel consumption.
Excellent value for money.
Backed up by an excellent dealer and parts network.
The Husqvarna 435 petrol chainsaw is a lightweight petrol chainsaw designed for the keen gardener or professional. It’s lightweight chainsaw that comes with a 15-inch bar, this size of chainsaw bar is large enough for most jobs in the garden. In normal terms, you would call in the professional to carry out larger felling jobs in the garden.
This is actually the smallest Husqvarna chainsaw that I have ever owned, I normally use a 60 to 70cc chainsaw for heavier more professional jobs. However, I have ended up using the Husqvarna 435 petrol chainsaw much more than I ever expected. It’s perfect for those jobs in the garden for pruning, felling small trees and perhaps jobs that you would normally carry out with a bow saw.
X-Torque
Engine
Powered by a 40.9 cc two-stroke petrol engine, which develops 1.6 kW, approximately 2.2 hp. There is enough power for those everyday garden jobs, obviously, it doesn’t have the same torque as a more powerful felling chainsaw. But, it’s fantastic for those small everyday jobs, as I mentioned, I use the Husqvarna 435 much more than I ever expected too!
With Husqvarna’s smart start feature it takes 40% less pulling effort to pull the recoil start. With the Husqvarna X-Torque feature, the engine produces 20% more power and 75% less emissions.
Air Injection
I have used this chainsaw right up to the 15-inch limit and it works absolutely fine. Now I have been used to larger chainsaws, but the Husqvarna copes well when working on larger timber. Always remember not to force the chainsaw but let the chainsaw do the work at its own speed and power.
You shouldn’t need to apply force when you are cutting with a chainsaw, the weight of the chainsaw should be adequate to slice through the timber. Just keep that chain sharp and your chainsaw will work effortlessly!
To Conclude
If you are looking for a budget chainsaw manufactured by a well-known, quality, establish brand, then the Husqvarna 435 petrol chainsaw is your answer. I find the 435 to be extremely useful around the garden and I’m using it much more than I expected. I use the Husqvarna 435 more than my larger chainsaw, at the same time it’s useful to have that larger chainsaw for the professional jobs!
If you’re a keen gardener or a professional who needs a lightweight chainsaw, then this chainsaw is recommended from my personal experience.
Will This Stihl Battery Chainsaw Cut A Load Of Wood On One Charge?
The title of my blog post today is; Will this Stihl Battery Chainsaw cut a load of wood on one charge?
Although I am not particularly enthusiastic about battery tools, however, I am hearing great things about the Stihl range of battery chainsaws. Some of us, including myself, probably prefer something with an internal combustion engine on, however, I can’t deny that these Stihl battery products have come a long way in the last few years.
I have just watched a video on the MSA 161 T Top handle chainsaw and the challenge was “Will this Stihl Battery Chainsaw cut a load of wood on one charge”? It was actually a fallen over maple tree that was being cut, I guess the pieces of wood were around 10 inches in diameter. I was amazed at how quickly the chainsaw cut through the Maplewood, especially with battery power!
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The fact is that this Stihl rechargeable battery chainsaw can cut a load of wood without the need to recharge the battery! I actually thought this result was quite impressive from a battery chainsaw and a good load of wood. Incidentally, the battery chainsaw still had some power left in the battery!
So, looking at the Stihl MSA 200 C-BQ Cordless Chainsaw this is a slightly different saw that was being used in the video. This particular saw is a two-handed chainsaw for general purpose use. The chainsaw used in the video was really a chainsaw for arborists being what we called a top handled chainsaw.
Top Handled Chainsaws
Top handled chainsaws are designed for arborists who are climbing trees regularly. If you use a top handled chainsaw when you are on the ground, which I don’t recommend. Extreme care needs to be taken as you have one hand free and there’s a temptation to use another hand which can be touched on the chainsaw blade if care is not taken. It might sound a bit extreme, but if I use a top handled saw on the ground, sometimes I even put my hand behind my back so there is no temptation to try and move wood, by reaching over the cutter bar. It is always better to be safe rather than sorry.
The batteries for this particular chainsaw that I am referring to are sold separately. However, the great thing is that if you have a number of Stihl garden and arborist products the batteries all fit in the same tools.
The Stihl MSA 200 C-BQ Cordless Chainsaw allegedly matches petrol power, I’m not quite sure about this though. I always think that petrol power has a bit more go than rechargeable machines! However, rechargeable products have come a huge way over the last few years.
A few weeks ago I was working with a gang of tree surgeons and they had several Stihl rechargeable products. These products included a top handled chainsaw, a hedge cutter, a pole hedge trimmer and telescopic chainsaw. They also had their traditional petrol Stihl chainsaws and hedge cutters on site!
I was really quite surprised to see professional tree surgeons using electric rechargeable tools. However, they were saying how good they were especially the top handled chainsaw for climbing, no engine to start and no noise.
MSA 161 T Top handle chainsaw
In the video, you can see the maple tree is quite large. However, the Stihl chainsaw appears to cope extremely well. Before I watched the video, I didn’t expect the battery to manage a full load of wood. However, they did manage to cut a load of wood and managed to have a small amount of power left in the battery.
According to the manufacturer, the battery should last 35 minutes. Now I’m guessing that this must vary depending on how much load you’re putting on the chainsaw.
I have just been reading about the new Stihl MS 400 C-M chainsaw which has the first magnesium piston. Apparently, the magnesium piston gives more power and is lighter in weight. Allegedly it is the first chainsaw with a magnesium piston, however, I also heard that Husqvarna was working on a similar project
Stihl MS 400 C-M chainsaw
The Stihl MS 400 C-M magnesium piston chainsaw is a professional saw that has been designed for forestry and arb users. The list price of this chainsaw is around £1000, although I’m sure discounts are available. This is Stihl’s highest performance chainsaw in the 60cc category, giving 1400 rpm. It also delivers an increase in torque and displacement and power.
Power To Weight Ratio
It looks like the Stihl MS 400 C-M magnesium piston chainsaw has a good power to weight ratio, apparently, it’s 14 % lighter than the MS 362 chainsaw. I have to say I don’t know much about magnesium pistons, but I would like to learn more. I was reading a few articles about how magnesium pistons are used in the racing industry, which would suggest they are good.
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Mid-Range Chainsaw
To my mind, a 60 to 70cc is a good all-round chainsaw for general-purpose. Traditionally I’ve always had a chainsaw around this size with a 20-inch bar. I also have a smaller saw which is really handy for small pruning jobs in the garden and associated tasks. It’s very lightweight and easy to use.
The Stihl MS 400 C-M Chainsaw is available with a 16-inch, 18-inch and 20-inch cutting bar.
I would like to see reviews on this Stihl chainsaw and to see if it has any teething problems etc.
You can see more information on the Stihl MS 400 C-M chainsaw on Stihl’s website.
Stihl Chainsaws
I’ve owned many Stihl products over the years and I have encountered very few problems. I still use the products today and will carry on doing so. Most tree surgeons that I see working have Stihl products, to me, this says a lot.
Please feel free to comment below. It’s always good to hear other people’s experiences and opinions.
Specification
Displacement cm³
66.8
Power output kW/bhp
4/5.4
Weight kg 1)
5.8
System weight kg 2)
6.88 / 7.07 / 7.11
Power-to-weight ratio kg/kW
1.4
Sound pressure level dB(A) 3)
107
Sound power level dB(A) 3)
118
Vibration values left/right m/s² 4)
3.5/3.5
Oil pump
Adjustable oil filter
Tank volume l
0.60
Chain pitch
3/8″
Chain tensioning
Lateral chain tension
Sprocket – number of teeth
7 Z
Filter
Long-term filter system (pre-separation) / cartridge filter HD2
Bumper spike
Steel claw
Cylinder
Chrome
Oil tank volume cm3
325
Sprocket
Ring sprocket
Anti vibration system
Standard AV-System
Filler cap
Tool-free filler cap
Starting system
ElastoStart / Recoilless Ignition / single-lever control / decompression valve
I see far too many people struggling with a blunt chainsaw, so today we are going to discuss how to sharpen a chainsaw with a hand file.
How to sharpen a chainsaw with a hand file.
Using a blunt chainsaw is extremely painful and puts unnecessary workload on the operator and extreme pressure on the actual chainsaw itself. You shouldn’t be forcing the chainsaw to cut, it should do the work for you, literally, the weight of the chainsaw should be enough to cut efficiently.
There are different methods of sharpening chainsaw’s, for example, electric chainsaw sharpener’s, products that you attach to the end of your chainsaw chain and the traditional hand file! I have never actually used anything else to sharpen a chainsaw other than a hand file, probably the most important fact is to be able to hold the chainsaw securely, ideally in an engineer’s vice, if this is available. There’s nothing worse than trying to sharpen the chainsaw when it’s moving about all over the place!
Sharpening a chainsaw chain by hand is a method that anyone can use, I normally buy a box of files which actually last me for ages. However, there is nothing worse than using a blunt file, eventually, the files where they get a bit clogged up with chainsaw oil and won’t cut efficiently.
Stump Vice
Stump Vice
In the video, the first method shown is using a small clamp and sharpening the chain attached to the chainsaw, this is traditionally the way that I would sharpen my chainsaw. A stump vice is used in the video to secure the chainsaw. The stump vice is pounded into the wood which then enables the vice to be secure to hold the chainsaw.
As the video shows, the chain is loose and needs tightening, if you try and sharpen the chainsaw with the chain loose, you will not be able to sharpen the chain properly as it will be all over the place!
To tighten the chain, released the two pinch bolts, most chainsaws have two pinch bolts that secure the chain, although, some of the smaller chainsaws’s just have one larger pinch bolt. Once you have released the two pinch bolts, you will need a screwdriver to tighten up the chain. The video shows where the screw is to tighten up the chain, on some models of chainsaw the screw can be next to the pinch bolts. However, in my experience, they are generally at the front of the chainsaw as the video shows.
Tighten the chain reasonably tight so that you can still turn the chain by hand, by doing this the chain is nice and secure for sharpening. If you over tighten the chain you will find that you cannot turn the chain properly, so just release the chain slightly to enable you to turn the chain freely.
Make Sure You Can See What You’re Doing!
It’s important to see what you are doing and is the author of this video explains, he has a decent pair of glasses on, which are doubled up with a second pair of lenses, for extra clarity and vision. Don’t work blind, it doesn’t work!
Using The File
Using The File
Make sure and start at the end of the bar where it is nice and secure and where there is no movement. I personally use a chainsaw guide which just fits on the file and helps you to get the correct angle. In this video, the gentleman has marked a piece of wood with the correct angle of the chainsaw tooth. Many chains nowadays actually have the angle stamped on the end of each tooth so you know which angle to take. In my experience, the more practice you have of sharpening a chain the easier it becomes.
Make sure that you keep the file level, in other words, 90° to the bar, in this way you’ll be sharpening the tooth perfectly. If you are moving around all over the place you will not get a nice sharp edge.
Make sure to apply gentle pressure on the forward strokes, a file only sharpens on the forward stroke. After three or four strokes the particular tooth should be sharp in normal circumstances.
Note that you don’t actually have to touch the teeth, as you sharpen one tooth, you can move on to the next one by pulling the chain round with the file. Avoid touching the chain with your hands as obviously the teeth become sharp as you file them!
Another way to sharpen the chain is to remove the chain and put it into an engineers vice, which is normally fitted to a workbench. However, I have seen some tree surgeons have a vice fitted on their truck or some have a portable vice that fits on their wood chipper!
Sharpening in a bench file takes a little bit of practice as the file tends to move around a bit more. But the good thing is that practice makes perfect.
In the video, the gentleman has 30° and 25° marks on engineering vice for optimum accuracy. As I mentioned earlier and I believe most chains have this feature now, there’s actually a mark on the chain which shows you the correct angle. It really is a helpful feature indeed.
When you are sharpening you really need to be pushing into the tooth rather than pushing down. Make sure you are using the correct size file so that the file fits correctly into the tooth, by doing this you will be getting a perfectly sharp edge.
I don’t normally count the number of strokes that are used to sharpen a chain, although, I would say on average I use 3 to 4 strokes. As I sharpen the chain, I try to look at the chain visually to look for any damage and sharpen accordingly.
Occasionally when you are filing your chain tooth, a very slight burr can happen, to remove this just run the file gently over the top of the tooth until it is smooth.
Make Sure You Are Holding The File Correctly
It’s very easy to become sloppy when you are filing a chainsaw tooth, make sure that you have the correct fitting file for your particular size of chain, this is highly important. You do not want to be pushing too hard downwards or upwards as this can have the wrong effect on the chain. It just wants to be seated tightly in the tooth so that you can get a nice sharp cutting edge. Make sure that you file away any damage on the tooth so that it has a nice even edge. Make sure as the video shows that you do not move the file around, for example, twisting and not keeping the file square.
After every few strokes of the file I normally tap the file which removes excess iron filings and helps to keep the file clean and sharp for maximum efficiency. In the video the gentleman says that he doesn’t turn his file, I normally just twist the file so that the file gets an even amount of use, I’m not sure if this is the correct way but it seems to work for me.
The Teeth Alternate
When you are sharpening your chain, you will notice that the teeth alternate, so in other words you have to sharpen every other tooth and then turn the chainsaw round or the chain around to sharpen the other tooth. Do not try and sharpen the whole chain from one angle, it won’t work!
Make sure that the rakers are at the correct height, these are the depth gauge teeth or rakers that help to control smooth cutting. Ideally you need to purchase a simple depth gauge as shown in the video.
Place the depth gauge on the chain and if the rakers are high they will just stick out slightly above the gauge. Some people file the rakers with the gauge in place, however, this can wear the gauge after a period of time, so, I prefer to remove the depth gauge and then file the raker tooth. After two or three sweeps of the file, check the height of the tooth with the gauge and repeat if necessary.
You need a small flat file to file for the raker teeth down. Make sure you file the raker tooth down in the same direction as you file the tooth. Failure to do this will make the file chatter and you will not get a nice edge on the raker tooth.
Once you have the raker teeth filed down to the correct height, sometimes the top of the raker teeth can have a sharp edge on. Just take file and round that edge off fractionally, taking care not to touch your recently sharpened tooth.
Now your chain is ready for use!
Take Care When Cutting
Great care is needed when you are using a chainsaw, not only in safety, but also in making sure that you don’t cut too low to the ground as it takes very little to take the edge of the chain. Touching the ground with the chain can quickly or instantly blunt your chain.
Also take care when cutting trees down new to the ground as the bark can become very gritty, especially if a tree has hollows within it. Over the years dust and dirt can get into places and in turn, this will blunt your chain.
Thank you for reading, please feel free to comment below.
